Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1500
- Make
- Rolex
- Reference
- 1500
- Model
- Oyster Perpetual
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1500
General overview
- Model: Oyster Perpetual Date, smooth‑bezel 34 mm. Introduced c. 1962. Produced through the late 1970s. Stainless steel was standard; related refs cover other bezels/metals. Millenary Watches
- Production period: c. 1962–late 1970s (serials present into 1978–79). oysterworld.de
- Key specs
- Case: 34 mm steel Oyster, Twinlock screw‑down crown, 19 mm lugs. Approx. 11.5–12 mm thick. 100 m (10 ATM) period rating. Acrylic Cyclops crystal. Smooth bezel. Millenary Watches+2Zeit Vintage Watch+2
- Movement: Rolex Cal. 1565 (early) then 1570/1575 family (date variant), automatic, no quick‑set; hacking added early 1970s. Beckertime, LLC+2Millenary Watches+2
- Bracelet: Oyster rivet 7205 (19 mm), folded 7835 (19 mm), later solid 78350 (19 mm); Jubilee options existed. Rolex Forums+3eBay+3Chrono24+3
- Why it matters: The ref. 1500 is the archetypal mid‑size chronometer Date using the robust 15xx calibres, often the most accessible entry to COSC‑rated vintage Rolex. Bobswatches.com
Serial numbers / production eras
| Era | Approx. serials (Rolex overall) | Movement in 1500 | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1962–1964 | ~763k–1.195m | 1565 | Early dials, some black gilt; non‑hacking; 18,000 vph. oysterworld.de+2Antique Watch Co+2 |
| 1965–1970 | ~1.193m–2.959m | 1570/1575 | 19,800 vph; still non‑hacking; date set by 24‑hour advance. oysterworld.de+2Millenary Watches+2 |
| 1971–1977 | ~2.728m–5.368m | 1570/1575 (hacking) | Hacking seconds from ~1971/72; sigma‑dial period begins. oysterworld.de+2gmtmasterhistory.com+2 |
| 1978–1979 | ~5.238m–6.122m | 1570/1575 | Late tritium matte dials; service parts common. oysterworld.de+1 |
Serials are approximate model‑agnostic ranges used to date cases; 1500 assembly can lag case‑back stampings. oysterworld.de+1
External components breakdown
| Component | Correct types / part refs | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Case | Ref. 1500 steel Oyster, 19 mm lugs | “1500” stamped between lugs; smooth bezel (polished). Millenary Watches |
| Case back | Inside stamped “1500”; quarter‑year date codes to 1972 (e.g., I.66) | Case‑back codes date the back itself, not always the finished watch. rolexhaven.com |
| Crystal | Acrylic Cyclops 25‑117 (“Tropic 117”) | Factory/service part used across 34 mm Date 1500 family. timeconnectioninc.com+1 |
| Crown / tube | Twinlock 24‑600‑0 crown; tube 24‑6000 (service 24‑6020) | Period‑correct 6 mm Twinlock set used on OP/Date family. chrono-shop.net+1 |
| Bezel | Smooth stainless steel (press‑fit) | Engine‑turned/fluted belong to sibling refs (see below). Millenary Watches |
| Bracelets | Oyster 7205 riveted + 57 end‑links (19 mm); Oyster 7835 folded + 357 ends; Oyster 78350 solid + 557 ends; Jubilee 6251H (19 mm) with 50/74 ends found | Many 1500s shipped on Oyster; Jubilee seen period‑correct on 19 mm cases. Verify end‑link codes. chrono-shop.net+3eBay+3Chrono24+3 |
| Clasp | Date codes inside clasp (letters = year, digits = month) | Useful to cross‑check bracelet age. oysterworld.de |
Authenticity flags: mismatched end‑links (e.g., 20 mm codes on 19 mm case), aftermarket crystals not marked 25‑117, modern service crowns (different coronet depth). Chrono24+1
Dial variations (chronology)
| Period | “Mark” / traits | Lume line | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| c. 1962–63 | Early gloss black gilt, “SWISS” only | Radium on earliest; transitional to tritium | Scarcer on 1500; seen with arrow/“diamond” markers and dauphine hands. Antique Watch Co+1 |
| 1963 (transitional) | Underline dials; some still “SWISS” | Early tritium underlined | Industry‑wide move off radium. rolexpassionreport.com |
| 1964–67 | Gloss, “T SWISS T” or “SWISS T<25” | Tritium | Standard baton markers. “Hook‑7” date wheels appear mid‑60s. Millenary Watches+1 |
| 1968–mid‑70s | Matte finishes; σ T SWISS T σ on some | Tritium | Sigma marks indicate gold hands/markers; appear early 1970s. Hodinkee+1 |
| Service (late 1990s→) | “SWISS” only (1998–99) then “SWISS MADE” | Luminova/Super‑Luminova | Some service dials exist with “T” text but Luminova (“tritinova”). Watch Chest+1 |
Known co‑brandings include Serpico y Laino and UAE crests on 1500. sothebys.com+1
Bezel / insert / external variants (same case family)
- 1500: smooth steel bezel (this dossier). 1501: steel engine‑turned. 1503: 14 k fluted. 1505: two‑tone engine‑turned. 1507: 18 k fluted. Rare: 1502 (Florentine), 1504 (geometric). Millenary Watches+1
Counterfeit risk: swapping 1501 engine‑turned bezels onto 1500; verify reference between lugs and bezel type. Millenary Watches
Hands, movement & technical features
- Hands: Baton with tritium; early 1960 examples documented with dauphine/arrow furniture. Date discs with open 6/9 and “hook‑7” seen mid‑60s. vintagewatchcentre.com+1
- Cal. 1565 (early): 26 j, 18,000 vph, free‑sprung balance with overcoil, instantaneous date, non‑hacking. Beckertime, LLC+1
- Cal. 1570/1575 (date variant): 19,800 vph, 25–26 j, Microstella free‑sprung, ~48 h reserve, hacking added ~1971/72; no quick‑set. Some plates stamped “1570” though functionally 1575 with date. Millenary Watches+2Millenary Watches+2
- Water resistance: Oyster case era rating 100 m; treat vintage examples cautiously. Chrono24
Part numbers (collector‑relevant)
- Movements used: 1565 (early); 1570/1575 date family. In‑house Rolex 15xx series. Beckertime, LLC+1
- Case: Ref. 1500 (smooth bezel). Case‑back inside “1500” with quarter‑year stamp through 1972. rolexhaven.com
- Crystal: 25‑117 acrylic Cyclops (Tropic 117). timeconnectioninc.com
- Crown / tube: 24‑600‑0 Twinlock crown; tube 24‑6000 (service 24‑6020). chrono-shop.net+1
- Bracelets: Oyster 7205 (rivet, 19 mm, end‑link 57); 7835 (folded, 19 mm, 357); 78350 (solid, 19 mm, 557). Jubilee 6251H 19 mm with 50 or 74 end‑links seen. chrono-shop.net+3eBay+3Chrono24+3
Authentication & restoration checklist
Originality checks
- Between lugs: “1500” at 12, serial at 6; inspect font and corrosion. qualitytyme.net
- Case‑back: Inside ref and quarter‑year code pre‑1972; mismatches are common but note plausibility. rolexhaven.com
- Movement: Correct 15xx bridge engravings; era‑correct (1565 early, 1570/1575 later). Hacking behavior consistent with c. 1971/72 onward. Beckertime, LLC+1
- Dial: Lume line vs era (“SWISS”→“T SWISS T/SWISS T<25”; σ‑dials early 1970s). Watch for Luminova service dials marked “SWISS” (1998–99) or “SWISS MADE.” rolexpassionreport.com+2Hodinkee+2
- Date wheel: Period fonts (open 6/9, hook‑7 mid‑60s). watchclub.com
- Bracelet: 19 mm width; verify bracelet ref, end‑link code (57/357/557) and clasp date vs case serial. eBay+2Chrono24+2
Common red flags
- Engine‑turned/fluted bezels on a case stamped 1500. Millenary Watches
- 20 mm end‑links on 19 mm lugs; aftermarket crystal not 25‑117; modern crowns mis‑matched. Chrono24+1
- Tritium dial relume with Luminova without “Swiss”/“Swiss Made” change. Watch Chest
Restoration guidance
- Sympathetic: Light case refresh only; retain chamfers and lug holes. Use OEM 25‑117 crystal and period‑correct hands if replaced. timeconnectioninc.com
- Bracelets: Period‑matching 7205/7835/78350 or 6251H with correct 19 mm ends. eBay+2Chrono24+2
- Service interval: Regular service for 15xx (~5–10 years) to preserve chronometer performance; avoid pressure testing to modern specs on original crowns/tubes. (General practice; confirm with your watchmaker.)
- Provenance: Note co‑signed dials (Serpico y Laino; UAE crests); keep clasp/dial/movement photos and any RSC paperwork. sothebys.com+1
Summary
Ref. 1500 combines the classic 34 mm Oyster case with Rolex’s 15xx automatic architecture. Early pieces carry Cal. 1565; later watches use 1570/1575 with hacking from ~1971/72. Dials transition from early gilt/“SWISS” to tritium “T SWISS T,” with sigma dials in the 1970s. Correct crystals (25‑117), 19 mm bracelets and end‑links (57/357/557), and period fonts on the date wheel are key tells. It is a durable, chronometer‑rated vintage Rolex with broad parts support and strong collector liquidity. Chrono24+4Beckertime, LLC+4Millenary Watches+4
Verification notes (conflicts resolved)
- Hacking start: Sources cite 1971–72. For dating, treat 2.59–3.05 M serials (1971–72) as the changeover window. gmtmasterhistory.com+1
- 1570 vs 1575 stamping: Some “1570” bridges power date models; functionally this is the 1575 variant. Cross‑check by calendar works and case period. Millenary Watches