Rolex Submariner 168000
- Make
- Rolex
- Reference
- 168000
- Model
- Submariner
General Overview
Model & history. The Submariner ref. 168000 is the short‑run, “transitional” Submariner Date produced between the late 16800 and the early 16610. It is visually near‑identical to late 16800s (gloss dial/white‑gold surrounds) but introduces Rolex’s higher‑grade 904L stainless steel to the Submariner line—hence collectors’ interest. It retains the cal. 3035 movement. Craft & Tailored Journal+2Everest Bands+2
Introduction & production. Introduced around mid‑1987, produced for roughly 7–9 months into 1988, then replaced by the 16610 in 1989. (There are credible auction examples with late‑1986 serials—see “Serial numbers/eras” for nuance.) Craft + Tailored+2WatchProSite+2
Key technical specs (as delivered).
- Case: 40 mm steel (904L), ~13 mm thick; 300 m/1000 ft water resistance; Triplock crown; unidirectional elapsed‑time bezel with aluminum insert. Sapphire crystal with cyclops. Craft & Tailored Journal+2Bobswatches.com+2
- Movement: Rolex calibre 3035 (automatic, quick‑set date, hacking), 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, free‑sprung Microstella balance with Breguet overcoil; power reserve ~50 h (see note in Movement section). American Watchmakers Institute+2WatchBase.com+2
- Dial: Black gloss with applied white‑gold surrounds; tritium luminous (“SWISS‑T<25” layout). “Spider” (lacquer‑checking) aging is commonly seen on period gloss dials. Craft & Tailored Journal+2Millenary Watches+2
- Bezel/Insert: Steel bezel with black aluminum insert; period fonts vary (late thin/sans‑serif and later service inserts common). Bobswatches.com+1
- Bracelet: Oyster 93150 with 593 end‑links; fliplock clasp with dive extension. Rolliworks LLC
Why this reference matters. The 168000 is the first Submariner in 904L steel, bridging late 16800 (sapphire/300 m/3035) and early 16610 (3135). Its brief production window and material change make it a key transitional reference prized by collectors. (Rolex had tested 904L earlier on other models; see note in “Verification” below.) Bobswatches.com+1
Serial Numbers / Production Eras
Important: Serial lists are approximate; Rolex used cases and parts non‑sequentially and often overlapped components across references.
| Era (approx.) | Typical case serials | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Mid‑1987 | ~9.40M–9.86M | Launch period; cases stamped 168000 between lugs; dials gloss WG/tritium. Some inside case‑backs show 16800 (parts overlap). Fratello Watches+2Sothebys.com+2 |
| Late‑1987 to 1988 | R‑series (R0xxxxx–R5xxxxx+) | Continued 168000; R‑serial COMEX and retailer‑signed examples known (see below). Christie's+1 |
| Outliers observed | ~9.18M–9.36M (auction‑cataloged as 1986) | Several large‑house listings show 168000 with 1986‑dated serials; best explanation is case stock overlap & non‑sequential case use during roll‑in of 904L mid‑cases. Sothebys.com |
Footnotes & anomalies.
- Case‑back stamps: Both 168000 and 16800 inside case‑back stamps are documented on ref. 168000 (leftover/overlapping case‑back stock). Examples: a Christie's COMEX 168000 stated its inside back bears 168000 and full serial; other auction records explicitly note an inside back stamped 16800 on a 168000 watch. Christie's+1
- Co‑branding: COMEX and Tiffany & Co. signed 168000s exist in the auction record (R‑serial era). Christie's+1
External Components Breakdown
| Component | Factory part / spec (period‑correct) | Notes & authenticity checks |
|---|---|---|
| Mid‑case | Stamped 168000 between lugs at 12 o’clock | Look for original, even serif engraving; beware re‑stamped 16800 → 168000 (“added zero”)—compare font/position to known originals. Tapatalk |
| Case‑back (inside) | 168000 or 16800 seen | Both are documented; judge originality by period correctness (serial echoed, period service marks). Christie's+1 |
| Crystal | B25‑295‑CAR‑C1 sapphire (cyclops), also 25‑295‑C2 older code | Later service crystals can show laser‑etched coronet (post‑~2002); correct magnification ~2.5×. paulswatchrepair.com+1 |
| Bezel insert | B315‑16800‑181 (black, aluminum) | Same insert family used across 16800/168000/16610; many watches carry service inserts (thinner, sans‑serif fonts, LumiNova pearl). CHRONO SHOP+1 |
| Crown / tube | 24‑703 Triplock 7 mm / 24‑7030 tube | Verify correct 3‑dot Triplock; service crowns are common. CHRONO SHOP+1 |
| Bracelet / end‑links | 93150 Oyster / 593 | 501B often appears on later 16610; 580 is earlier (1680). For 168000, 593 is the expected pairing. Check clasp code vs. year (L=1987, M=1988, etc.). Rolliworks LLC+1 |
| Clasp | Fliplock w/ dive extension; clasp date code letters L (’87) / M (’88) | Cross‑check clasp letter/number against serial. Fratello Watches |
Service/availability notes. Original tritium dials and period‑correct glossy inserts are increasingly scarce; Rolex service parts (Luminova/Super‑LumiNova dials, modern inserts) are common replacements. Rolliworks LLC
Dial Variations (period‑correct, 168000)
All 168000 dials are the late “modern” type: gloss black with applied white‑gold surrounds and tritium (“SWISS‑T<25”). Many show “spider” crazing of the lacquer. Craft & Tailored Journal+2Millenary Watches+2
| Mark (collector shorthand) | Approx. era | Visual traits |
|---|---|---|
| Gloss WG — Mk 1–3 (late 16800 / 168000 shared) | 1986–1988 | Differences among logo/coronet shape and small text (e.g., length of the “E” in SUBMARINER line, alignment of “SWISS‑T<25”). These are incremental; 168000 shares the same families introduced on late 16800. Craft & Tailored Journal+1 |
| “Spider” gloss | 1986–1988 | Lacquer checking/crazing typical of mid‑80s gloss production; collectors treat as aging (not a different print). Zubmariner |
| Retailer or special dials | 1988 | Documented Tiffany & Co. signatures; documented COMEX 168000s. Collector Square+1 |
| Service replacements | c. 1998 “SWISS” (Luminova) / 1999+ “SWISS MADE” (SL)** | Seen on serviced examples; lume glows differently (green). Tritium hands/dial mismatches are common. Millenary Watches+1 |
Bezel / Insert / External Variants
- Insert types: Period aluminum inserts vary by font. Late‑1980s examples typically show thin/sans‑serif numerals; earlier fat‑font/serif inserts (more associated with early 16800) are sometimes found from parts swapping or early stock. Modern service inserts have distinct modern fonts and luminous (Luminova) pearls. Bobswatches.com+2WatchProSite+2
- Pearl: Tritium pearls (often dark/amber) vs. Luminova service pearls (bright/green glow). CHRONO SHOP
- Counterfeit risks: Aftermarket inserts are common; verify font geometry, triangle/pearl construction, and reverse finishing against known originals. Rolex Forums
Hands, Movement & Technical Features
Hands & furniture. Standard Submariner Mercedes hour/min/sweep set in steel with tritium fill to match dial; white‑gold surrounds are on the markers (dial), not the hands. Tritium should age consistently; mismatched bright hands on a tritium dial usually indicate service hands. Crown & Caliber Blog
Date wheel fonts. Period wheels often have “open 6/9” forms; closed 6/9 wheels appear frequently as later service parts (early ’90s onward). Mixed sets (e.g., closed 6 in “26”) are documented. Tapatalk+1
Crown & tube. 703 Triplock 7 mm crown with 24‑7030 tube. CHRONO SHOP+1
Calibre 3035 (technical).
- Type: Automatic, date, quick‑set; stop‑seconds.
- Beat rate: 28,800 vph (4 Hz).
- Jewels: 27.
- Oscillator: Free‑sprung balance, Microstella screws; Breguet overcoil hairspring; KIF shock.
- Power reserve: ~50 hours in factory literature/WatchBase; some secondary sources cite ~42 h on earlier documentation—expect variance after decades and service state. American Watchmakers Institute+2WatchBase.com+2
Part Numbers (macro)
Movements used: Rolex cal. 3035 only (in‑house). (Successor 16610 moved to 3135.) WatchBase.com
Case & external parts (typical correct references):
- Crystal: B25‑295‑CAR‑C1 (also 25‑295‑C2 seen) — Sub Date 16800/168000/16610. paulswatchrepair.com+1
- Bezel insert: B315‑16800‑181 (black). CHRONO SHOP
- Crown: 24‑703 (Triplock 7 mm). Tube: 24‑7030. CHRONO SHOP+1
- Bracelet: 93150 Oyster, end‑links 593 (20 mm). Fliplock clasp with date code (e.g., L=1987; M=1988). Rolliworks LLC+1
(Movement component part numbers omitted per brief; available upon request.)
Authentication & Restoration Checklist
Originality checks (quick list)
- Between‑lug reference: Clean, factory 168000 stamp at 12; serial at 6. Inspect font and surfaces for signs of re‑stamping (added “0”). Tapatalk
- Inside case‑back: Either 168000 or 16800 can be correct on 168000 (documented). Look for period‑appropriate dates/marks. Christie's+1
- Dial: Gloss WG/tritium with “SWISS‑T<25”; period printing traits; spidering acceptable aging. Be cautious of later “SWISS” (1998) or “SWISS MADE” (1999+) service dials. Craft & Tailored Journal+1
- Hands: Tritium tone should broadly match dial; bright white hands on an aged tritium dial suggest replacements. Crown & Caliber Blog
- Bezel insert: Period aluminum with appropriate fonts; Luminova pearl indicates service; compare fonts to known late‑80s styles. Bobswatches.com
- Bracelet: 93150/593 pairing; verify clasp date (L/M for 1987/88) relative to serial. Rolliworks LLC+1
- Movement: 3035 signed & numbered; check condition of rotor axle, autowind reversers, and date mechanism; rate/reserve within spec. American Watchmakers Institute
Common red flags
- Re‑engraved reference (added “0” to a 16800). Tapatalk
- Service dial/hand set (Luminova/SL mismatched to tritium case era). Millenary Watches
- Modern service insert or aftermarket insert passed as original. Rolex Forums
- Over‑polished case (rounded crown guards, thinned bevels) compromising geometry and value.
Recommended restoration practices
- Sympathetic: retain original tritium dial/hands if stable; avoid relume. Keep original insert and crystal if serviceability/safety allow.
- Correct crystal: B25‑295‑CAR‑C1 is period‑correct if replacement is required. paulswatchrepair.com
- Correct crown/tube: 24‑703 / 24‑7030. Replace gaskets/O‑rings at service. CHRONO SHOP
- Service interval: 5–10 years depending on use; pressure‑test after any intervention affecting case integrity.
- Provenance: retain bracelet/clasp codes, service invoices, and any retailer signatures (e.g., Tiffany & Co.) or COMEX provenance; these materially affect value. Collector Square+1
Summary
The Rolex Submariner ref. 168000 is the material bridge between the sapphire/300 m 16800 and the 16610 movement upgrade: it keeps the 3035 heartbeat and late‑16800 gloss tritium aesthetic, but introduces 904L steel to the Submariner case. Made for well under a year (1987–1988), it exhibits typical late‑’80s components (93150/593, thin‑font inserts, gloss WG dials with possible “spider” aging) and shows documented overlap in case‑back references. Co‑branded (COMEX, Tiffany & Co.) examples exist and command premiums. For authentication and restoration, focus on correct 168000 mid‑case engraving, tritium dial/hand set, 3035 correctness, and appropriate bracelet/clasp pairing. Collector Square+3Bobswatches.com+3WatchProSite+3
Sources & Notes (selected)
- Transitional context & features (16800 → 168000): Craft + Tailored reference essay on the 16800 (sapphire, 300 m, unidirectional bezel), which 168000 inherits; Everest comparison of 16800 vs. 168000; Bob’s Watches overviews. Craft & Tailored Journal+2Everest Bands+2
- 904L introduction (Submariner): WatchProSite & dealer essays; general 904L timeline—role of Sea‑Dweller in 1985 also cited in literature (i.e., 168000 is first Submariner in 904L, though 904L appeared earlier on other models). WatchProSite+1
- Movement 3035 technicals: Rolex technical sheet (AWCI), WatchBase, Millenary Watches overview. American Watchmakers Institute+2WatchBase.com+2
- Serial/year mapping & clasp date codes: Fratello serial list; Everest/Millenary guides to clasp codes. Fratello Watches
- Case‑back anomalies & co‑branded examples: Christie's COMEX 168000; Sotheby’s listings incl. Tiffany & Co.; additional auction aggregators noting inside back 16800 on 168000. Christie's+2Sothebys.com+2
- Dial & lume: Late gloss WG dial discussion; tritium markings; “Swiss‑only” service era (1998–1999). Craft & Tailored Journal+2Millenary Watches+2
- Inserts & parts references: Chrono‑Shop/Paul’s Watch Repair listings for B25‑295‑CAR‑C1; period insert B315‑16800‑181. paulswatchrepair.com+1
- Crown & tube: Chrono‑Shop (24‑7030 tube), parts listings indicating 24‑703 crown compatibility. CHRONO SHOP+1
Verification note (conflicting points reconciled)
- Production window. Most scholarly/dealer sources place ref. 168000 from mid‑1987 to 1988 (~7–9 months). However, Sotheby’s has catalogued 168000s with 1986 serials (e.g., 9.36M), which likely reflects non‑sequential case usage and parts overlap during the switchover. This dossier therefore treats 1987–1988 as the primary production span, with documented 1986‑serial outliers. Craft + Tailored+1
- Power reserve (cal. 3035). WatchBase & several modern write‑ups give ~50 h; older material and some dealer notes cite ~42 h. Practical performance varies with service state; we present ~50 h as nominal per WatchBase/modern literature and note the variance. WatchBase.com+1
- 904L “firsts.” The 168000 is the first Submariner in 904L; some sources note the Sea‑Dweller used 904L earlier (c. 1985). Both statements can be true; the distinction here is “first Submariner in 904L.” Millenary Watches
Appendix — Quick reference table
| Spec | Reference 168000 |
|---|---|
| Case | 40 mm, 904L steel, ~13 mm, 20 mm lugs, 300 m |
| Bezel | Unidirectional steel ring, aluminum black insert (B315‑16800‑181) |
| Crystal | Sapphire w/ cyclops (B25‑295‑CAR‑C1) |
| Crown / Tube | 24‑703 Triplock 7 mm / 24‑7030 |
| Bracelet | 93150 Oyster, 593 end‑links, fliplock |
| Movement | Cal. 3035 (27 j, 28,800 vph, quick‑set, hacking; ~50 h PR) |
| Dial | Gloss WG surrounds, tritium (“SWISS‑T<25”), spidering common |
| Era | ~1987–1988 (primary); 1986 serial outliers documented |
| Notable variants | COMEX & Tiffany & Co. signed pieces documented |